In this video we examine the various cam hooks used in aid climbing. Cam hooks are an invaluable tool when aid climbing: they can save time, and when used correctly they are quite “bomber” (or solid) compared to other forms of hooking.
Cam hooks can be used in pin scars created by lost arrow pitons and knife blades and sometimes they will even hold in angle scars.
They come in three sizes, small, medium and large. Small hooks can only be used in vertical cracks or seams, while the medium and larger cam hooks can be used in both vertical as well as horizontal placements such as in roofs. They also work well in certain situations such as on fragile, expanding flakes.
When placing a hook, try to bury the flat end of the hook into the crack up to the point where it turns. Set the placement by pulling down and then gently weighting it.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.