Aid Climbing: 8. Jumaring Texas Style
Aid Climbing & Big Walls
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2m 18s
In this video we look at another jumaring technique known as the Texas style (aka frog or double leg style). Texas style jumaring is a useful technique for ascending a free hanging line because it allows the climber to get all their power into the lower jumar, in order to slide the upper jumar.
Below are the steps for setting up a Texas style jumar.
Step 1: Attach the first jumar to the fixed rope by opening the cam, hooking it onto the rope, and closing it.
Step 2: Attach the second jumar to the fixed rope just below the first.
Step 3: Clip the first daisy chain to the upper jumar using a locking carabiner. The key here is to keep the the jumar within a reachable distance, such that when you are fully weighting the rope, and the daisy to the upper jumar is taught, your arm has a slight bend at the elbow.
Step 4: Attach the second daisy chain to the lower jumar also using a locking carabiner. The distance here is not as important and a little longer is okay.
Step 6: Attach both ladders (aiders) to the locking carabiner of the lower jumar.
To begin jumaring Texas style:
Step 1: Slide each jumar up and weight the system to get rope stretch out.
Step 2: Grab onto the lower jumar with your left hand, and pull yourself into the jumar while standing up with both legs.
Step 3: With the lower jumar weighted by both legs, slide the upper jumar up quickly with your right hand.
Step 4: Sit in your harness, allowing your body weight to hang on the upper jumar. With the lower jumar now unweighted, slide it up to meet the upper jumar.
Note: If the lower jumar does not slide easily up the rope, slightly disengage (or “feather”) the trigger on the lower jumar without taking it off the rope, then slide it up.
Remember to tie a backup knot in the rope every 10-15 feet.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
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