In this video we look at the technique used to clean pitches. We start with a straightforward, vertical pitch.
Attach your jumars to the rope. Weight them by sitting onto your daisy chains. This eliminates most of the stretch in the rope.
Now start jugging the line to clean the pitch.
Step 1: When approaching the first piece of protection, stop a few inches below it.
Step 2: While fully weighting your lowest jumar, detach the upper jumar from the rope to pass the piece. Then re-attach the upper jumar to the rope, just above the piece you wish to clean.
Step 3: Remove the piece from the rock, leaving it clipped to the rope so you don’t accidentally drop it.
Step 4: Once you are relaxed and confident, unclip the piece from the rope and re-rack it.
Take a moment to separate slings and gear, re-racking them the way you prefer for your next lead, or in a way that facilitates a transition to your partner if you are leading in blocks.
Finally, continue to the next piece and repeat steps 1-4 until you are done.
Like most things aid climbing-related, the process will become more efficient over time.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.