Ice Climbing: 12. Hooking the Lead Rope on the Ice Tool
Ice Climbing • 35s
DANGER! This is an advanced technique that is hotly debated among strong ice climbers, and is NOT relevant to someone watching ClimbingTechTips to learn about ice climbing. It is in no way backed up by standard industry practices, and is certainly not recommended by gear manufacturers who make most ice tools.
The guide in this video Doug Nidever is a bold and solid ice climber, who specializes in thin ice, which involves a much higher risk tolerance. Most people learning to ice climb will be going to places like Ouray or the Northeast, or maybe Bozeman where the ice features are affected by a lot of climber traffic and look very different from the conditions in this video. TRY THIS TECHNIQUE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
In this video we review considerations for hooking the lead rope on the ice tool while ice climbing. One instance when the lead climber may consider hooking the rope to one of their ice tools is while placing a screw.
This is done by placing the ice tool firmly into the ice above you, and hooking the lead rope up and into the bottom hook of the ice tool. This offers the lead climber additional protection from a potential fall, while placing the screw.
If the climber does fall, the belayer will arrest the belay device and the ice tool will hold the weight of the climber keeping them from falling.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Up Next in Ice Climbing
-
Ice Climbing: 13. Placing Ice Screws
In this video we look at how to place ice screws. Ice screws offer protection for the lead climber in the event of a fall, the same way cams and stoppers do in rock climbing. Below are the steps for placing ice screws:
Step 1: Turn one foot sideways if possible to help create a more comfortabl...
-
Ice Climbing: 14. Securing the Belaye...
In this video we review how to secure the belayer at the anchor. This is similar to rock climbing with a few nuances.
One thing that is different is that you will need to secure the belayer to an anchor at the base of the mountain—this is mainly due to ice being a slippery and, in some ways, a...
-
Ice Climbing: 15. Sharpening Crampons...
In this video we discuss the importance of sharpening crampons and ice tools and crampons.
Crampon:
- All points of the crampons should be reasonably sharp, not only the front point(s).
- Frequency and type of use will determine how often they need to be sharpened. If you are doing a lot of ...
