Ice Climbing: 14. Securing the Belayer at the Anchor
Ice Climbing
•
53s
In this video we review how to secure the belayer at the anchor. This is similar to rock climbing with a few nuances.
One thing that is different is that you will need to secure the belayer to an anchor at the base of the mountain—this is mainly due to ice being a slippery and, in some ways, a less stable medium than rock.
Ice anchors are typically set with one higher than the other, and offset to the side. Envision a square with four boxes and place the two screws as if they were in diagonal boxes, not directly horizontal or parallel.
This anchor arrangement offers an excellent range of equalization options, and excellent side-to-side stability.
The higher screw then can also be used as the first piece of protection for the climber.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Up Next in Ice Climbing
-
Ice Climbing: 15. Sharpening Crampons...
In this video we discuss the importance of sharpening crampons and ice tools and crampons.
Crampon:
- All points of the crampons should be reasonably sharp, not only the front point(s).
- Frequency and type of use will determine how often they need to be sharpened. If you are doing a lot of ... -
Ice Climbing: 16. Creating V-Thread A...
In this video we review how to create, and rappel from, a v-thread anchor. A v-thread anchor is drilled into the ice in a V shape, using only a small length of cord which is left behind.
Below are the steps for creating a v-thread anchor:
Step 1: Using a longer ice screw (22 cm), drill a ho...
-
The Myth of Chouinard, Robinson & The...
