In this video we review how to secure the belayer at the anchor. This is similar to rock climbing with a few nuances.
One thing that is different is that you will need to secure the belayer to an anchor at the base of the mountain—this is mainly due to ice being a slippery and, in some ways, a less stable medium than rock.
Ice anchors are typically set with one higher than the other, and offset to the side. Envision a square with four boxes and place the two screws as if they were in diagonal boxes, not directly horizontal or parallel.
This anchor arrangement offers an excellent range of equalization options, and excellent side-to-side stability.
The higher screw then can also be used as the first piece of protection for the climber.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.