Fitness for Climbing: 4. Wrist Extensions for Antagonist (extensor) Training
Fitness for Climbing • 1m 28s
In this video we review an exercise known as Wrist Extensions for Antagonist (Extensor) training. This exercise helps prevent tendon injury, the most common of which is called medial epicondylitis. This is otherwise known as golfer's elbow.
Golfer’s elbow occurs when there is damage to the medial epicondyle, located on the inside of the forearm. To prevent this injury, try antagonist wrist extension exercises, as we have outlined below:
Step 1: Hold a dumbbell in the middle handle, palm facing down with the dumbbell horizontal. While setting up for this move, also rest the inside of your elbow on your knee.
Step 2: Begin to slowly rotate the dumbbell up, by twisting at your wrist until you reach full upward movement.
Step 3: Hold the weight at the top for one or two seconds. You should feel the flex, and then bring the dumbbell back down to its starting position.
Few tips to ensure proper, eccentric pronation technique:
- Always keep the weight flat and horizontal. DO NOT tilt the weight to one side.
- Always rest all the weight of your forearm on your knee. DO NOT engage the bicep.
We recommend performing this exercise in three sets of 15 reps, with at least one minute in between.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
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