Fitness for Climbing: 4. Wrist Extensions for Antagonist (extensor) Training
Fitness for Climbing
•
1m 28s
In this video we review an exercise known as Wrist Extensions for Antagonist (Extensor) training. This exercise helps prevent tendon injury, the most common of which is called medial epicondylitis. This is otherwise known as golfer's elbow.
Golfer’s elbow occurs when there is damage to the medial epicondyle, located on the inside of the forearm. To prevent this injury, try antagonist wrist extension exercises, as we have outlined below:
Step 1: Hold a dumbbell in the middle handle, palm facing down with the dumbbell horizontal. While setting up for this move, also rest the inside of your elbow on your knee.
Step 2: Begin to slowly rotate the dumbbell up, by twisting at your wrist until you reach full upward movement.
Step 3: Hold the weight at the top for one or two seconds. You should feel the flex, and then bring the dumbbell back down to its starting position.
Few tips to ensure proper, eccentric pronation technique:
- Always keep the weight flat and horizontal. DO NOT tilt the weight to one side.
- Always rest all the weight of your forearm on your knee. DO NOT engage the bicep.
We recommend performing this exercise in three sets of 15 reps, with at least one minute in between.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Up Next in Fitness for Climbing
-
Fitness for Climbing: 5. Hangboard - ...
Hangboarding is one of the best ways to build climbing hand strength and muscular endurance. There are many ways to use hangboards for climbing fitness. Here we review the hangboard exercise known as Repeaters.
Start by grabbing the easiest holds on the hangboard with both hands and dead hang ...
-
Fitness for Climbing: 6. Hangboard - ...
Here we continue our review of how to use a hangboard for climbing fitness. The Typewriter exercise helps develop power for your back and shoulders.
Start by grabbing onto the easier holds of the hangboard in a locked-off position, bent at elbows with head at hand-level. Then you begin transfe...
-
Fitness for Climbing: 8. Rock Rings -...
It is time to try hanging rings for climbing fitness! Specifically we’ll review the lock-off exercise, with focus on strengthening the upper body.
1. The start of a lock-off is similar to holding your body position at the top of a pull-up. Start by grabbing onto both rings, and perform a pull...
