Multi-Pitch Trad: 1. Understanding & Using a Reverso
Multi-Pitch Trad Climbing • 1m 57s
In this video we discuss the benefits of a plaquette belay device. This is a type of belay device which locks the climber’s rope in position when they fall. Brands include the Reverso from Petzl and the ATC Guide from Black Diamond.
1. While current standard practice says that a plaquette device is not technically hands free, it does allow you a lot of freedom while belaying a second. You can hold the brake strand loosely while you snack, drink water, or organize gear, so long as you are able to quickly take up slack as the climber ascends.
2. The plaquette device does not create a pulley on the anchor, as happens in a redirected belay off the harness. This can potentially lead to higher forces on the anchor in the event of a fall, as it pulls the belayer off their stance. The plaquette isolates the force of the climber, without adding the belayer to that equation if the climber falls.
3. The plaquette keeps the belayer out of the system, making it easier for the belayer to respond in case of an emergency.
For more info on this, see our video on “Direct Belay using an Auto-Block Device.”[hyperlink to video]
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Up Next in Multi-Pitch Trad Climbing
-
Multi-Pitch Trad: 2. Belay Transitions
In this video we look at belay transitions during multi-pitch climbing. You’ll notice the theme throughout these considerations is efficiency. Time management in multi-pitch climbing is crucial when trying to make the most of daylight hours. Below are a few tips to consider for belay transitions:...
-
Multi-Pitch Trad: 3. Gear Considerations
In this video we look at the gear we often take on multi-pitch, traditional route. Every climb is unique and may require more or less gear depending on the weather, number of pitches, and length of the approach hike. Below is an example checklist for a 3-pitch route in the Sierra Nevada, expectin...
-
Multi-Pitch Trad: 4. Gear Logistics
First, decide with your climbing partner how you will lead and follow the route. There are two main strategies:
Swinging leads - This method entails each climber alternating leads and belays on each pitch throughout the climb.
Leading in blocks - This method entails one climber leading each...
