Climbing Movement: 5. Jugs
Climbing Movement
•
1m 3s
A “jug” is a term used to describe a large positive feature, typically a hand hold. The textbook jug is a full hand, or in-cut, or positive circle of a hold, and allows you to completely latch on so you can feel secure.
A foothold can also be “juggy”, meaning very positive and capable of easily taking weight off your hands.
Identify jugs or large features along your route, in order to find rests on the wall.
There are different terms used to describe jug holds. For example, a large side-pull might be termed a Jug Side Pull. Others include “chicken heads”, “horns”, “suitcase handles”…etc. Call a jug whatever you like, all we know is a jug can be a saving grace when desperate for rest!
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Up Next in Climbing Movement
-
Climbing Movement: 6. Crimping
A “crimp” is a term used to describe small edges or hand-holds, ranging from in-cut to sloping. The word “crimp” can define both the type of hold, and the grip position itself.
Crimps are edges, and are often positive. At times they are smooth, like sandstone. Others are sharp or rough, suc...
-
Climbing Movement: 7. Down Palm
A “down palm” can often be used on face climbs, on slab climbs, and on “mantles” for “mantling”.
You won't always have a “perfect edge” when climbing. However, a rounded or "sloping" feature can also be made positive for movement.
This is accomplished by pressing with your palm downwards, ...
-
Climbing Movement: 8. Using Chalk
Chalk is a vital component for most climbers.
Without chalk on your hands, the climber is undoubtedly climbing in sub-optimal conditions. Greasy hand sweat impedes the climber’s ability to have optimum friction, in order to gain upward purchase on the rock.
In the early climbing days, o...